If you’re in the Army’s combat arms, specifically the infantry, chances are very, very good you’ll be paying a prolonged visit to Fort Polk, Louisiana—site of the Joint Readiness Training Center (JRTC). These days, it’s the post’s reason for being, and it’s pumping a bunch of people through this sprawling, but comparatively sparsely populated, facility.

At Polk, soldiers focus on the Contemporary Operational Environment (COE), and—especially—Counterinsurgency operations (COIN). Across Fort Polk’s vast training area are scattered as many as 24 “villages,” with almost 1,000 role players acting as indigenous population.

Fort Polk is also home to the 4th Brigade, 10th Mountain Division, one of the Army’s new modular brigades. It was activated there January 19, 2005.

If you’re headed to the Leesville, Louisiana facility understand that—aside from billeted facilities—there is a limited number of places to stay, eat and recreate. It’s not a hardship tour, but neither does it offer the nearby amenities of other CONUS (Continental United States) areas.

Leesville is located some 64 miles north of Lake Charles, and about 98 miles southeast of Shreveport. The nearest airport with good air service is Alexandria. That’s very probably where you’ll be flying into. Delta Connection offers nonstop service to its Atlanta megahub from AEX, while Continental Express flies to Houston Bush Intercontinental, and Northwest Airlink to Memphis.

If you’re arriving through Lake Charles, the airline will be Continental Express. It offers frequent flights to Continental’s Houston hub.

DoD has set the per diem in Lake Charles and Calcasieu Parish at $104—$65 for lodging, and $39 for meals and incidentals.

Lodging in Leesville itself is limited. The two mainline hotels are the Days Inn at 1910 South 5th Street, and the Best Western Stagecoach Inn at 1200 North 6th Street. Perhaps the highest rated place to stay in town is the Booker Lewis House, at 102 East North Street. If you’ve got someone coming in town to visit during tour time at Polk, this is the place to put them.

On-post the Welch Magnolia House (1-337-531-9000) is the place to stay. It’s Building 522, and is located at 522 Utah Avenue. Army Lodging facilities at Fort Polk include Bradshaw Court Apartments, Cypress Inn, Warrior Keep and Traditions Circle Cottages. Welch Magnolia House itself just installed wireless high-speed Internet. There are dial-up connections at Bradshaw Court. Want to bring your pet with you? You can.

Dining options are limited. Aside from the usual fast food places—Burger King, Arby’s, Dominos and such—you might check out Catfish Junction on Highway 171 South, or Crawfish to Go at 101 Harper Street. The latter is a favorite with locals in this stretch of Cajun country.

If you’re in search of a way to pass the time, it’s best if you love the outdoors. Not far from Fort Polk is the Toledo Bend Recreation Site—a massive fishing, boating and hiking area. Bass boats can be had for $35 per day, canoes for $10. Toledo Bend sports a dozen two-bedroom mobile homes for rent for $40 per day. Not a bad deal. Call 1-888-718-9088.

Toledo Bend is dotted with barbeque grills, picnic tables and the like. There’s even a sandy beach, a decent way to wash away the grit and grime from JRTC.

Fort Polk: While it may not be your station of choice, the folks in this part of the country are genuinely friendly, believe in the United States military, and will welcome you warmly to their part of the world. Remember, this is Cajun country.

Jerome Greer Chandler is the winner of 16 Associated Press broadcast journalism awards. He's been recognized by the Royal Aeronautical Society for journalistic excellence in the field of aviation reporting. The 16-year contributor to Frequent Flyer has written about commercial aviation for Popular Science, Travel & Leisure, The New York Times Syndicate and others. His book Fire & Rain - the story of the wind shear crash of Delta Flight 191 - was a bestseller, and was subsequently made into a highly rated television movie. Drawing on his insights on commercial aviation, Chandler has appeared on Good Morning America, CNN and the PBS science series Nova. Jerome can be reached at JerryC1410@aol.com