Europe’s northernmost capital is an easygoing destination for the executive traveller. But its many distractions disguise a tough work ethic, says Jonathan Hart Flying into Reykjavik on business can be like going on holiday; a descent over a scattering of red roofs, sea and mountains hinting at freedom from the stress and hassles of big city life. The windswept setting of Keflavik Airport resembles the wilds of Scotland farther removed, an isolated promontory in mid-Atlantic promising lungs full of fresh air and no great threat to mental agility, more the notion of a spot of easy business coupled with an enervating hiatus in the great outdoors. And it’s true. Up to a point. About an hour later, as your taxi enters the outskirts of Europe’s northernmost capital, you see nothing radically imposing or challenging, just a mainly low-rise and comfortably compact city moving at a purposeful but casual pace; either cutely appealing or rather dated, depending on your viewpoint.
Depending, too, on whether you are a rural or big city dweller, as well as the time of year or time of arrival, there can be a faintly surreal air to Reykjavik, with its steaming thermal springs hastily harnessed for the visiting masses; as if this little city minding its own business on the edge of nowhere has suddenly been thrust into the 21st century before it’s ready. In this respect, you’ll want for nothing in the selection of mostly modern, adequately comfortable and well equipped hotels, and won’t fail to be impressed by the countless bars, cafes and restaurants that lend Reykjavik its current reputation as Europe’s Capital of Cool. Elaborate food and copious drink are the fuel of a fashion that demands late night stamina and a fat wallet, starting with mere lengthy sessions at the trough and rising to monster all-night binges to usher in the weekend.
It’s what Reykjavik expects of you under its hip new mantle, born of a gregarious Viking culture; the possibility of walking between venues for exercise, or staggering back to your hotel to sober up for the morning, coming as somewhat of a relief. And sober you need to be when conducting business. Just as you’ll lose if you attempt to drink your Icelandic counterparts under the bar, so will you fail to put one past them over the boardroom table.
As well as operating within strictly transparent parameters, they display an unnerving ability to speak English, as well as know their international onions, better than you. The same carrot and stick approach that offers enormous discounts on designer shopping before taking it all back, and includes a good night out, is well worth remembering when doing business in Reykjavik.
Surrendering to the inevitable is, anyway, the best option, given the after-hours attractions of hot springs, superb seafood and succulent mountain lamb, all with unique geological wonders beckoning on the doorstep.
After all, you’re really on holiday. Aren’t you?
Fast facts
Currency: Icelandic krona (€1=ISK86.62/US$1= ISK60.75)
Tipping: service is always included, including taxi fares, so no one expects a tip
Time: GMT
Electricity: 220 volts (European-style two-pin plugs)
Public holidays 2007: December 24, 25, 26, 31. 2008: January 1; March 20, 21, 24; April 20; May 1, 12; June 17; August 7; December 24, 25, 26, 31
Climate: not as cold as might be imagined because of the passing Gulf Stream. Summer temperatures can rise to 77°F (25°C), against an average temperature during January of 31°F (-0.5°C). Daylight is almost continuous during the summer, while early spring and late autumn feature long twilights; from mid-November until the end of January there are only a few hours of daylight each day. The Northern Lights are often visible in autumn and early winter
Airport: Keflavik International 50km (32 miles) southwest of Reykjavik. The Flybus service completes the journey in around 45 minutes and will stop on request at the Hotel Viking in Hafnarfjörður and at Aktu Taktu in Garðabær. The fare per person for a four-passenger taxi is approximately €60-€65. Note that all domestic flights, plus services to the Faroe Islands and Greenland, depart from Reykjavik City Airport.
Hotels: Nordica Icelandair, Ódinsvé, 1919 Radisson SAS, Skjaldbreið Centerhotel, Saga Radisson SAS, Loftleider Icelandair, Grand, Borg, Park Inn, Plaza, Centrum
Business hours: 09.00-17.00 Monday-Friday
International dialling code: 354
In emergency: 112 (police, fire and ambulance
Business do’s and don’ts
Do dress smartly
Do be punctual - if you are running late, advise them of your expected time of arrival
Do plan visits in advance between May and September as many local business people travel abroad at that time
Do remember to look under the given name when referring to the phone directory
Don’t go into a meeting unprepared - have all the relevant information to hand
Don’t be surprised if initial small talk is kept to a minimum and discussions start immediately
Don’t be embarrassed by calling people by their first name, which are used in preference to surnames
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