The fifth-largest city in France is making progress at its own pace, only slowly responding to the demands of business travellers. Jonathan Hart reports They’re extending the tram line to Mérignac Airport this summer. An ordinary piece of news, you might think, in this capital of fine wines, classic arts and culinary expertise. Yet a move, nonetheless, that is destined to cure, or at least alleviate, a hangover that has been plaguing old Bordeaux. Particularly since 2005, when the finest grape harvest for a century had the world beating a path to Mérignac, with buyers from as far afield as Japan and China vying for vats of exclusive nectar to lay down – and finding themselves knee-deep in vintage traffic jams. And particularly as an unseemly scrum could ensue when this sports crazy city plays host to the Rugby World Cup in September. Suddenly, the rest of the world seems to have discovered Bordeaux, while its one million laid-back citizens have been sipping Margaux, quietly savouring their own refinement, and apparently twiddling their thumbs over trifling matters such as easy airport access. They haven’t, of course, but who could blame them? Together with rapid rail links to Gare St-Jean, plus the best in cellars, food, cutting-edge laser and aerospace industries, they do, after all, preside over a centre of precious charms and 18th century architectural magnificence, peppered with glorious squares, towering spires, intriguing alleyways, colourful ethnic quarters, and literally thousands of cafes.
Viewed from the East Bank, across the wide arc of ocean-going Garonne River and impeccably renovated quays, there can be few more captivating sights for historians. And if progress as France’s fifth-largest city means preserving this pedestrian- pleasing mix while spreading ever outwards through nondescript suburbs with near zero consideration for cars, then so be it. The problem is that otherwise sleek and impressive Mérignac, along with the Euro-hungry taxis that ply the 12km to and from the airport – made as much as 20kms by a 2007 vintage called Route Diversion – desperately needs a supplementary lifeline. Which is why the (blue) line tram extension from St-Augustin is altogether good news for frustrated business travellers; as is the opening this summer of the Radisson SAS hotel in a building of appropriate grandeur, directly opposite the Grand Theatre in the heart of a city where corporate compliant hotels have to date been as rare as hens’ teeth. As with their wines, the Bordelais apparently see no reason to hurry their coffee to accommodate visitor numbers that have trebled to an annual three million in recent years, preferring instead to mull over modifications to a city centre whose notable aesthetics must never be sacrificed to expedience. This same thinking applies to the four-year-old and expanding tram network that criss-crosses the centre on barely discernible tracks, with little exterior paraphernalia; an essential 21st century addition in concert with its ancient surroundings. Victor Hugo, who viewed Bordeaux as the best of Versailles and Antwerp combined, would have been proud. FACTS
Currency: Euro (€1=US$1.36)
Tipping: restaurants include service, but it is customary to leave a further 5%; taxi drivers generally expect 10% on top of the metered fare
Time: GMT + 1 (+ 2 from last Sunday in March until last Sunday in October)
Electricity: 220 volts (round two-pin European-style plugs)
Public holidays 2007: May 1,8, 17, 27; July 14; August 15; November 1, 11; December 2, 6, 9, 16, 23, 25, 26, 31
Climate: generally temperate, with short, mild winters, pleasant springs, hot summers, long autumns, and a high degree of humidity generated by the close proximity of the Atlantic
Airport: 12km (7.5 miles) from the city centre; Jet’Bus operates every 45 minutes to the railway station with a journey time of around 40 minutes, and costing €7 one-way; taxis are unmetered and fares should, therefore, be negotiated in advance
Hotels: Best Western, Burdigala, Chateau Grattaquine, Citadines Apart’hotel, Comfort Inn, Companile, Holiday Inn, Ibis, Mercure, Novotel, Quality Suites, Tulip Inn
Business hours: 08.30/09.00-18.00/19.00 Monday to Friday, but often with a two-hour lunch break; some banks close on Mondays and at 12.00 the day before a public holiday
International dialling code: 00 33
In emergency: Ambulance 15, police 17, fire 18; or 112 for all services
business do’s and don’ts
Do dress smartly – the French are style aware
Do demonstrate courtesy, an important part of French life
Do make appointments
Do be on time, although the French are not obsessive about punctuality
Do take the trouble to learn a few phrases – a little French goes a long way
Don’t expect the long lunches of the past, but do be prepared to discuss business over a meal
Don’t under-estimate the importance of hierarchy
Don’t be surprised if much of the documentation is in French – few concessions are made where the English language is concerned
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