Whether or not Turkey joins Europe seems of little consequence to its second city, which continues to prosper in the time-honoured way. Jonathan Hart reports One day, although probably not soon despite meeting the economic criteria, Turkey may overcome the political jousting and objections to its EU entry. Meanwhile, Istanbul continues to trade much as it has done for centuries, defiant in the face of superficial business borders. This is, after all, an age-old port where deals traditionally have been struck over a glass of tea and a handshake. And if too much bureaucracy stands in the way, it deserves to be… well, sidestepped to mutual benefit and agreement, or at least dealt with later. Strategically balanced at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, a conduit for goods of every kind and a manufacturing powerhouse in its own right, Istanbul remains that rare free-spirited and freewheeling find in an otherwise rigorously controlled business world. Here is a laterally minded venue that ostensibly conforms with reforms and toes the line of the strictures or agenda of the day, yet also thrives on a commercial edge and a maxim of where there's a will there's a way; a place where the impossible always seems possible in infinite variety. Infinite, too, are the cultural complexities of this spread-eagled metropolis of 15 million, straddling the Bosphorus. The former capital of two world empires is at once ancient and modern in atmosphere and outlook amid a sea of different ethnicity and districts old or discarded, new or regenerated. Doing business in the shadow of imposing Ottoman palaces, mosques, markets or bazaars demands swiftly learning the local ropes; getting to know the right people with the right contacts in the right quarter, and putting personal relationships and trust high on your list of priorities. Depending on your pre-arrival homework, this may comprise carousing with your counterparts aboard a private cruiser or in the lobbies of upscale hotels, restaurants, cafes or clubs that are the match of any in the EU in terms of modernity, sleekness and service. Or it may mean tramping cobbled alleyways, interminable cold calling, and getting nowhere fast in dilapidated districts that somehow have missed out on the rapidly and constantly changing commercial programme. Small wonder that most of the city's 500 mosques appear curiously empty, save on Fridays. Optimising time, making a living and chasing progress are paramount in this model of Kemal Ataturk's modern, secular Turkey. From the sleek Ataturk Airport, 24km into the glossy district of Taksim, or in wealthy residential Bebek or regenerated Beyoglu, that progress is apparent. But, as with any big city, there are also many parts still to be avoided, along with mostly unfathomable public transport; a factor not helped by the chances of your cab driver being straight off the boat and having no clue with regard to directions. Like the bridges that link its sprawl, Istanbul can be confusing and challenging to all but the regular visitor – yet this is a city that's endlessly intriguing and forever packed full of promise. Currency: Turkish lira (€1=TRL1.76641/ US$1= TRL1.29755)
Tipping: 10%-15% to restaurant bills (less in smaller establishments); round-up taxi fares
Time: GMT +2 (+3 between April and October)
Electricity: 220 volts (Europeanstyle two-pin plugs)
Public holidays 2007: October 12-15, 28, 29; December 7-11. 2008: January 1; April 23; May 19; August 30; October 1-4, 29
Climate: Generally mild, with warm, humid summers (although there was a heatwave this year), and very little rain; cold, damp winters. Average year-round temperature is 14C (57F). Such is the topography of the city that there can be climatic variations from one area to another, with the Mediterranean dominating that of the Bosphorus Strait, for example
Airport: Atatürk airport, in Yesilköy, on the European side of Istanbul, is 24km (15 miles) west of the city centre; Havas Shuttle buses operate every 30 minutes to various destinations, including Taksim Square, with a journey time of 50 minutes and costing US$5; a Metro light railway connects the airport to Esenler.
Hotels: Ceylan Intercontinental, Çiragan Palace Kempinski, Conrad, Crowne Plaza, Dedeman, Divan Oteli, Four Seasons, Holiday Inn, Hyatt Regency, Hilton, Movenpick, Princess, Radisson SAS, Renaissance Polat, Ritz-Carlton, Sumahan on the Water, Swissôtel The Bosphorus Business hours: 08.30-12.30; 13.30-17.30
International dialling code: 90
In emergency: 155 (police); 110 (fire); 112 (ambulance) business do’s and don’ts Do bear in mind that Turkey is 98% Muslim, and that Islamic customs should be observed
Do accept coffee or tea, which will almost certainly be offered on arrival – it is regarded as impolite to refuse
Do remember that Turks indicate ‘yes’ by nodding their head forward and down, and ‘no’ by nodding their head up and back, with raised eyebrows
Do be aware that personal relationships play an important part in this society
Don’t worry unduly about language – English is widely spoken in business circles
Don’t underestimate the time it takes between appointments – the traffic can be horrendous
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