Free from the strictures of the European Union, the city on the lake is an independent spirit with a reputation for diplomacy, style and common sense. Jonathan Hart reports
Swiss precision comes with refreshing consensus in Geneva, capitalist enclave with a democratic heart. Come next June 7, 11 and 15, and rioting soccer fans or not, this enlightened lakeside city promises to outshine all others as a host for Euro 2008; a pin-sharp venue primed in every detail, from a pristine stadium and multi-purpose zones for enthusiasts, to abundant concerts and entertainment for everyone throughout the duration of the tournament. All long debated, dissected and agreed in open consultation with each and every resident before an extra brick has been laid or a tram schedule readjusted. Just the way it should be, you may think, in a city renowned for its role as an international arbitrator and purveyor of common sense in a world gone crazy. And you'd be right.
Not for this solidly sane but far from bland host to the UN and countless other inter-governmental organisations any danger of civic autocracy or imposing change for the sake of change. Not for Geneva, either, the need to bow to any of the EU edicts now eroding the character, communities or social fabric of so many European cities. Like the rest of Switzerland, the canton adheres to the tenets of cross-border trade and employment, but is not about to be dictated to by Brussels or its holier-than-thou acolytes over how to behave in its own backyard. The result is a fiercely independent and eminently civilised city, happy in its own well-heeled skin, as well as happy to be open for debate or refuge for the libertarian. The serenity of the surroundings, with beautifully preserved monuments, skiing in the mountains in winter and swimming or yachting on the lake in summer, should saddle Geneva with a superior air. Instead, the wealth of artists, writers or intellectuals of café society, coupled with a large student population, give the city a vibrant and down-to-earth demeanour; at once calm and polite but also alive and active. Geneva, you feel, must always be free to express itself, provided its goals are achieved through relaxed good order and consensus among all who live here. In culture, architecture, food and entertainment, the city embraces the traditional and contemporary with equal verve and aplomb but without flashiness or fanfare. Look across the night-lit lake from Sir Rocco Forte's cutting edge and eclectic new Le Richemond hotel and it's obvious who underwrites this independent mood. The modestly sized and neat neons atop the Old Town are all those of banks and jewellers, the pedestrian streets and alleyways below lined with designer fashion boutiques and tempting chocolate shops. Yet these same streets also comfortably incorporate casual bars, cafes and outdoor student parties refreshingly free of the snooty derision or aggression that commonly can be found elsewhere. Division and disenfranchisement are clearly not on the agenda of a city that lives up to its democratic principles. But then this is Geneva. Fast Facts
Currency: Swiss franc (CHF) (€1=CHF1.63)
Tipping: hotels and restaurants include a substantial service charge, but it is customary to round up bills for exceptional service; taxis also include a service charge, but again, add a few coppers to the fare
Time: GMT + 1
Electricity: 220 volts (three-pin round plugs)
Public holidays 2008: March 21, 24; May 1, 12; August 1; September 11; December 25, 31
Climate: the altitude (400m above sea level), combined with the lake, tempers the prevailing continental climate; summers are warm to hot; winters are mild, although temperatures can drop to below freezing; the bise, a bitter north wind, occasionally sweeps the city; rainfall is evenly spread throughout the year
Airport: Cointrin is 5km (3 miles) from the city centre. Trains leave every 10 minutes and complete the journey in just 6 minutes (CHF5). Buses take around 25 minutes and cost CHF2.20, while the taxi ride is normally 15 minutes and costs CHF30-35
Hotels: Best Western, Crowne Plaza, Holiday Inn, Holiday Inn Express, Ibis, Movenpick, Nash, NH, Ramada Park
Business hours: 08.00/09.00-17.00/18.00 (with a lunch break of two hours)
International dialling code: 00 41 (22)
In emergency: 117 (police), 118 (fire), 144 (ambulance) business do’s and don’ts
Do make appointments and make a point of arriving a few minutes early – punctuality here is next to godliness
Do dress smartly – although more casual these days, the Swiss go by appearances
Do be prepared for some hard bargaining
Don’t be surprised at the lack of small talk – the Swiss like to get down to business immediately
Don’t suggest a breakfast meeting – the preference is generally to discuss business over lunch or dinner
Don’t be over familiar – use formal titles at meetings until invited to do otherwise
Don’t pry into family life or personal matters.
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