Amid the colourful and frustrating chaos that is the sub-continent, its administrative capital stands out as a model of efficiency and calm. Jonathan Hart reports Travelling on business in India can frequently prove to be a bit of a stinker, sir, fraught with bureaucracy to get up one's nose and in one's hair. But goodness me, sir, if there is one city where you can do business right and proper,
with the correct rubber stamps and the correct papers in the correct and super double quick order, it’s Delhi. You see, sir, Delhi is the administrative capital for all of India and probably you must come sometime to complete your business. But better still, it is a city of two parts, old and new. New is the part where you must be going and very wholesome it is, too, with grand offices and many very fine places to stay. You will dine like a maharajah, sir, have no tummy problems and no need to go to Old Delhi or anywhere that is absolutely unpleasant. Are you understanding all this information, sir? Best to just nod and accept that while your taxi in from the airport has turned out to be an ancient Ambassador held together with string – Mercedes and BMWs are usually the preserve of a local elite – there’s a fighting chance you'll survive a trip here. Even if your guts go wobbly just flying over Indian air space or your inevitable guide – either officially imposed or a self-appointed cab driver – has the verbal runs and is the sort you could gleefully strangle to get some peace. Armed with the correct visa and, if you happen to be British or remotely related to the UK, a determination not to rise to the bait that insists all of India's economic problems are down to a Raj that hasn't existed for almost 60 years, you may actually enjoy your trip. New Delhi is India on its best behaviour, stiff and formal for much of the time yet also architecturally and historically well endowed, packed with political intrigue and the only place in an anarchic democracy growing at a rate of 17 million people a year where vital decisions are made. Decisions usually reached with business visitors and potential partners not just in those grand offices but also at elaborately staged cocktail parties or banquets, impeccable on etiquette and flowing with tongue-loosening
whisky and beer. To a man and very often a woman, New Delhi's ruling elite is finely dressed and can also sup with the best of ’em, expensively educated, highly literate and no-one’s fool. Mind your manners and watch your step because this is
a place that's nuclear-powered in more ways than one. Time off and you’ll be tempted into Old Delhi with its Red Fort and bazaars, not so sanitary but providing zero personal hazards; all the time remembering you're in the right place. Mumbai may be the height of fashion and
Bangalore the hi-tech capital. But New Delhi wields the clout. business do’s and don’ts
Do be punctual – good timekeeping is appreciated, if not always practised
Do try to schedule appointments either late morning or early afternoon and leave plenty of time between meetings to allow for traffic hold-ups
Do try to travel between October and March as the mid-summer heat can be extreme
Do check out public holidays, which are numerous
Do remember that by turning your watch upside down, the dial will indicate GMT
Don’t take offence if meetings are rescheduled at the last minute – this is quite common
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