A dry state in one sense, Brunei is far from arid in another, the capital of Bandar Seri Begawan a wellspring of business opportunities. True, even moderate drinkers have been known to get a little edgy, particularly if your penchant is to relax over a beer in a bar. Yet a visit here is anything but the hardship posting it is frequently made out to be. Brunei and booze may not be the cosiest of bedfellows, but this is not to deny you a drink, merely to ask you to respect local sensitivities in a city where a bottle of imported water is more expensive than a litre of petrol. Frequent tropical downpours aside, the tiny Islamic sultanate may be as officially dry as the bottom of a proverbial birdcage, but you are welcome to import duty-free and drink in private, with shops and hotels happy to provide the appropriate mixers. And if you really can’t do without a session in public, the bars across the Malaysian border are only a 20-minute drive from the Brunei capital. More crucial, you may think as you emerge from Bandar Seri Begawan airport, a short drive from the commercial business district, this is somewhere you can probably do business with ease. A place that’s modern, highly educated, hi-tech savvy and only now, after decades of relative isolation, putting itself forward as a regional business hub. A place that’s compact yet uncluttered, with clear operational procedures, minimal taxes and maximum incentives for foreign business. Oil has accorded Brunei the luxury of making its own rules and diversifying at its own pace. In the process, it has established a tax-free, cradle-tograve welfare state and accelerated to incorporate a swathe of new, multi-lane highways, commercial satellite towns and recreational parks beyond the once remote oil, gas and foreign enclave of Kuala Belait/Seria. Carved from the jungle alongside is a network of business hotels to feed 21st century diversification and demand. The refurbished Sheraton Utama, for example, with private lounges and dining rooms, holds pride of meeting place, while the new Rizqun International and Centrepoint flank a giant shopping mall in the commercial Gadong district. And standing in splendid isolation by the beach at Jerudong, about 20 minutes’ drive from the airport, is the vast and lavish Empire Hotel & Country Club. Flanked by villas, multiplex cinema and championship golf course, this is where high society meets industry meets playtime in the newly outgoing Brunei. As with the gold-plated mosques and palaces that pepper the sultanate, an expense-no-object approach appears prevalent throughout; the whole lending Brunei a newly minted and faintly surreal atmosphere. By no means is Brunei yet as finger snappy in service as neighbouring hubs, exuding instead a flavour of Singapore in the Seventies; polite, eager to please and refreshingly still shy of being overtly smart or sharp – although already glitzy enough to turn lovers of understatement to drink. Currency: Brunei dollar (BND). US$1=BND1.6 (BND1=US$0.6)
Tipping: most restaurants and hotels add 10% service to the bill.Taxi drivers do not expect a tip
Time: GMT + 8
Electricity: 230 volts (flat or round three-pin plugs)
Public holidays 2007: April 21; May 31; July 15; September 1; October 3; November 3-5; December 25
Climate: tropical and humid, with temperatures hovering around 28°C (82°F), for much of the year.
Rainfall mainly between October and March, with the heaviest downpours during November and December
Airport: Brunei International (BWN) 3 miles (5km) from Bandar Seri Begawan. A regular bus (every 15 minutes) connects with the city centre and costs BND$2 (US$1.25); taxis charge between BND$20-25 (US$12.50-$15.50) for the 15-minute journey
Hotels: Sheraton Utama, Empire, Brunei, Riverview, Terrace
Business hours: 07.45-12.15 and 13.30-16.30 Monday to Thursday; 09.00-12.00 Saturday
International dialling code: 673
In emergency: 991 (police, fire and ambulance) Business do’s and don’ts
Do take a good supply of business cards
Do dress modestly – Islamic laws apply here. Men should wear suits to meetings and women should cover their head, knees and arms Do remember to remove shoes when entering a Muslim's home
Do remember that compromising behaviour between Muslims and non- Muslims could result in deportation
Do be prepared for high humidity
Don’t refuse refreshments when offered – it is seen as discourteous
Don’t bother to hide your booze – although its sale is banned you can legally import duty-free up to two bottles of wine and a dozen cans of beer
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