Always ahead of neighbours in westernisation, Bahrain has also been first off the grid in staging F1 motor racing. Jonathan Hart sees how the sport is shaping the future Time was when tiny Bahrain was the most politely humble of Gulf states, a cosy and reliable financial conduit for investment in the region, as well as a discreet retreat for weekenders from across the causeway in Saudi Arabia. Not for this desert enclave, you may have thought, a desire to be loud, or any temptation to blow its own development trumpet in the familiar manner of some of its neighbours. Bahrain, after all, was the first state in the region to embrace Western commercial values, with locals actively employed at all levels of the business spectrum, and successfully to hit the diversification trail from oil dependence. It was also the first to establish democratic principles with equal rights for women, in addition to hosting a US base, both apparently in easy harmony with its Islamic leaders. In short, the little island kingdom appeared casual, happy and secure in its progressive skin, driving change at its own quiet pace and admired by many as a peaceful haven free of hype. That, however, was before Formula One motor racing came roaring into the desert, pivoting its mild-mannered and sole Middle Eastern host into the global spotlight and the kind of commercial furore more normally associated with Dubai or Doha. Staged last month at the impressive Bahrain International Circuit, or BIC, the third Grand Prix, like its first-of-the-season predecessors, has been responsible for radically changing the present and future face of Bahrain in as many years. The US$150 million (€125 million) BIC, a state-of-the-art track and leisure complex stranded in the middle of scrub land 30 minutes’ drive from the capital, Manama, is literally the driving force behind an urgent, island-wide swathe of mega-developments. Aided by a network of super-highways and a planned causeway link with Qatar, these are set to place Bahrain on the same multi-purpose meetings, sports events and tourism podium as its neighbours, while retaining a focus as the regional financial centre. Already nearing completion and largely booked in Manama is a skyrise Financial Harbour complex of offices, shops, apartments and marinas. Together with vast tracts of reclaimed land, glossy shopping malls and the fast expanding, upscale Seef district, Manama is no longer the compact and cosy city of old. And elsewhere, not least in the formerly barren region around the BIC, huge residential and leisure compounds are being built, sections of which are offered at 100% foreign ownership. Bahrainis remain arguably the region’s friendliest, most welcoming hosts; the focus of top end business and social life still revolving around the glamorous Ritz-Carlton and villas. Yet for those who remember a laid-back oasis with moderate hotels, casual bars and authentically grubby souks, Bahrain's race for change has inevitably brought traffic congestion, higher prices and heightened stress, along with improved accommodation and a smarter choice of entertainment. Such is rapid progress.
Currency: Bahraini dinar (BHD)
BHD1=US$2.65/€2.22
Tipping: hotels and restaurants include service in the bill, but it is
customary to add 10%; add a similar amount to taxi fares
Time: GMT+3
Electricity: 230 volts (UK-style flat three-pin plugs)
Public holidays 2006: April 10; May 1; October 23, 24, 25; December 16, 17
Climate: exceptionally hot and humid in summer, but mild and pleasant during the winter. Best time to visit is usually between December and March, when temperatures range between a comfortable 10°C and 20°C. Humidity is highest in July, August and September, with temperatures averaging 36°C.
Airport: Bahrain International (BAH) is 6.5km (4 miles) northeast of Manama. Bus and
taxi services run across the causeway to the main island, with a journey time of
approximately 15 minutes.
Hotels: (city centre) Sheraton, Gulf, Delmon; (Manama) Ritz-Carlton, Hilton, Regency Inter-Continental, Diplomat Radisson SAS, Crowne Plaza, Gulf Gate, Carlton, Phoenicia
Business hours: 08.00-13.00, 14.00-17.30 Saturday to Thursday, although the Western five-day week is increasingly common in Western-owned companies
International dialling code: 973
In emergency: 999 (all services)
business do’s and don’ts
Do send or take a letter of introduction as this speeds up the initial process
Do make appointments
Do ensure punctuality
Do go to the trouble to get business cards printed in Arabic on the reverse side
Do smile and make eye contact
Do avoid business trips during Ramadan
Don’t forget this is an Islamic state, albeit a liberal one, and do not take alcohol as a gift
Don’t be surprised if meetings take time to get going – social preliminaries are important
Don’t use high-pressure sales tactics – they won’t go down well
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