The Turkish capital is the focus of political and economic reforms that are the guiding parameters to the country’s eventual accession to the EU. Jonathan Hart reports Consider places like Canberra, Putrajaya or Brasilia. Administrative capitals are commonly perceived as boring by frequent travellers, the mental equivalent of just another day at the office or worthy of little more consideration than how swiftly you can get into and out of there. Ankara is no different in this respect, over-shadowed in the international fix and fun stakes for nigh on a century by the far more stimulating and carefree Istanbul. Yet this landlocked city on the high plains is still the essential pit-stop and pivot to cementing any sizeable business deal in Turkey beyond the bizarre or bazaar practices of national repute. Particularly as the once remote and ostensibly avoidable Ankara is now calling the essential bureaucratic shots like never before, the focus of political and economic reforms that are the guiding parameters to Turkey’s eventual accession to the EU. No longer riddled with debt, armed with a new US$10 billion loan and blessed by the IMF, Turkey is a giant in the European wings and in the interim is mooted as a foreign investment nirvana. Ankara, strictly complying with the new spirit of transparency, is where the deals are sealed in everything from energy and agriculture to electronics and mining. Truth be told, the reputed birthplace of King Midas offers little to distract from the pursuit of business gold, being largely staid and conservative in comparison to Istanbul. Alternatively, you might prefer the comparative cosiness, calm and cooler climes of a capital originally chosen in the 1920s by the father of modern Turkey, Kemal Atatürk, for its central location amid the vast expanses to the north, south, east and west. Expanded these days from a tiny area around the old citadel walls of soon-to-be-gentrified Ulus to incorporate the nearby hill town of Cankaya and all the trappings of a 21st century conurbation, Ankara remains relatively compact and easy to get around by reasonably-priced metered taxi or metro, largely free of traffic congestion or crowds. As a university town as well as an administrative centre, it offers an admirably diverse but otherwise unremarkable range of shops, cafes, pubs, fast food outlets and restaurants; the chief hangout for foreign business visitors being the more cosmopolitan strips of boutiques, malls, bars and restaurants clustered between and around the Hilton and Sheraton hotels in suburban Kavaklidere, site of many embassies and nearby 125-metre Atakule Tower lookout. The whole exudes a predominantly slow-paced, modern provincial feel with brief historical references to Turkey’s 12 civilisations – the most impressive cultural hits being the imposing Atatürk’s Mausoleum and fascinating Museum of Anatolian Civilisations. What Ankara perhaps lacks in character, it makes up for with a fresh sense of purpose. Talk to anyone here about living in the shadow of Istanbul and they’ll suggest an imminent new order under which the tail will no longer be wagging the dog. Currency: Turkish lira (€1= TRL1,882,689/US$1= TRL1,494,530)
Tipping: 10%-15% to restaurant bills (less in smaller establishments); round-up taxi fares
Time: GMT +2
Electricity: 220 volts (European-style two-pin plugs)
Public holidays 2006: November 1; December 30. 2007: January 1-3; February 19; April 23; May 19; August 30; October 29, 29
Climate: Central Anatolia (Asia Minor) is semi-arid, Ankara getting around 8in (350mm) of rainfall a year. Summers are hot, with daytime temperatures reaching 35ÞC (95ÞF), although humidity is low. Winters can be cold
Airport: Esenboga Airport (ESB), is 35km (22 miles) from the city centre; HAVAS buses provide a half-hourly service from 04.00 to 24.00 to and from railway station (fare around US$9/€7); metered taxis take around 20-25 minutes, and cost approximately US$35 (€28); a new combined international and domestic terminal is scheduled to open later this year
Hotels: 2000 Aniteppe, Best Western Ikibin, Dedeman, Grand, Hilton, Houston, Mega Residence, Radisson SAS, Ramada, Sheraton Hotel & Convention Centre, Swissotel
Business hours: 08.30-12.30; 13.30-17.30
International dialling code: 90
In emergency: 155 (police); 110 (fire); 112 (ambulance)
business do’s and don’ts
Do bear in mind that Turkey is 98% Muslim, and that Islamic customs should be observed
Do accept coffee or tea, which will almost certainly be offered on arrival – it is regarded as impolite to refuse
Do remember that Turks say ‘yes’ by nodding their head forward and down, and ‘no’ by nodding their head up and back while raising their eyebrows
Do be aware that personal relationships are important in this society
Don’t worry unduly about language – English is widely spoken in business circles
Don’t accept food or anything else with your left hand
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